Category South America

Adios, Sudamerica

Why Did the Farmer Cross the Road?Back home again! And even a week early, as it turned out. We weren’t due back until May 8 but then those crazy Colombian farmers decided to go on strike – chanting discontentedly and waving around poorly spelled signs like angry workers anywhere in the world. The difference with […]

Holy Colombia!

Over the years we have spent Easter in a number of different Latin American locations and while all have been fascinating and unique in their own way, they all share a few common traits, such as solemn Catholic services, wildly marauding children and impressive feats of alcoholism. So having chosen to pass Semana Santa (Holy […]

Cartagena by the Sea

In an abrupt departure from our recent time in the cool, rainy Ecuadoran highlands we are currently in the sweltering Caribbean port city of Cartagena de Indias, Colombia. For a number of reasons, not the least of which was at least some semblance of sanity, we opted against subjecting ourselves to a series of bus […]

Quito (the “u” is silent)

Our last stop in Ecuador was the historic and famous highland city of Quito. Besides being surely one of the nicest cities in the world starting with the letter Q it is also interesting in that it sits at around 2,700 metres above sea level, making the temperatures cooler and the air thinner, and it […]

Four Cities, Four Stories

Guayaquil Large crowds of casually outfitted weekenders stroll leisurely down the malecón, soaking in the atmosphere and the faintly salty smell of the river. The fast flowing water is littered with branches and foliage, messy evidence of watery violence further inland. The modern cleanliness of the malecón contrasts sharply with the wild dirtiness of the […]

The Big Evolution: Galapagos Part II

Well, if you read Part I earlier this week then you know where we went, what we did, who we did it with, and what we did it to, so now I it’s time to go through some of the highlights, lowlights and dim but memorable lights, like the beam of a flashlight with old […]

The Big Evolution: Galapagos Part I

Next up on our list of iconic South American trips this winter were the Galápagos Islands. Part of Ecuador despite being located around a thousand kilometres off the coast, this isolated chain of volcanic islands are famous the world over for their vast variety of wildlife, much of it found nowhere else in the world. […]

Urban Legends

As I find myself peering reflectively out the window of the Edén ship here in the Galapagos Islands, the bay of Puerto Ayora dotted with the lights of dozens of all manner of ocean craft, it occurs to me that I am currently engaging in no fewer than three creative firsts – writing while listening […]

Lakes and Islands

Well, as all things must do, our time in Argentina finally came to an end. Thankfully, I suppose, at least as far as our feet were concerned since, in case it wasn’t clear from the last entry, we spent the vast majority of our time in Argentina hiking. And eating large chunks of meat. But […]

The Big Hills of Bariloche

If El Chaltén is the hiking capital of Argentina, then Bariloche would have to be the vice-capital. The Biden to their Barack, if you will. Or the Andy to their Conan. Or the smartass black guy to the overweight white guy in any network sitcom. But that is, of course, just when it comes to […]