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Cannaregio: Guide to Our Favourite Venice Neighbourhood

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There are 6 historic sestieri (districts) in Venice, Italy, each with its own unique character and charm. Cannaregio Venice is the most populous of the 6 and the second largest by land area. It is also the most northern of the 6 sestieri and really only has one really touristy section.

Reflections in a Cannaregio Venice canal

Most reputable sources seem to agree that the name comes from “Canal Regio”, or “Royal Canal”in English, referring to the major river that was once Venice’s main connection to the mainland. However, we were told a different tale – that the name comes from “King of Cans” because of the time someone (?) arrived way back when there were cans everywhere. Not sure why, or if it really makes sense when “can” is an English word (“lattina” in Italian). But we were told this by a local Venetian so I felt it at least warrants consideration.

While most of Cannaregio stays relatively tourist-free, the portion of Cannaregio between the Santa Lucia train station and the famous Rialto Bridge following the Grand Canal is obviously a tourist hotspot. Known as the Strada Nova, it is the main thoroughfare through Venice and is, rather unsurprisingly, often referred to as “Main Street”.

Venice square

Outside that specific path, however, the majority of Cannaregio is made up of quiet, peaceful residential streets, lined with small cafés, local shops and bustling morning markets.

Following the picturesque side streets gets you even further off the regular tourist trail, finding your way into authentic little neighbourhoods displaying the charm of everyday life, with occasional surprises popping up like the gorgeous Ca’ d’Oro Palace (also known as Palazzo Santa Sofia), although it is hard to get a good look at it from dry land and it is best seen from the canal.

Canal in the Cannaregio neighbourhood of Venice, Italy

It is the fascinating mix of faded old homes and beautiful churches or functional washing lines and classic piazzas that captivates visitors who bother to get away from the usual Venice highlights to explore wonderful Sestiere Cannaregio.

We stayed down a tiny alley and had windows to both sides providing steady sounds of everyday Venice life (which thankfully quiets down pretty early). The Coop grocery store just around the corner usually featured an even mix of tourists staying in apartments and older local ladies doing their daily shopping.

Canal at night in Cannaregio Venice

All in all, just a great mix of interesting sites and local charm, making us quite pleased with our choice to stay in Cannaregio.

Check out our list of the Best Venice Captions and Italy Captions.

The 6 Sestieri of Venice

While Cannaregio district offers a bevy of unusual highlights and an authentic aura that is hard to find in such a popular tourist destination, each of the 6 sestieri has its own appeal.

For a complete overview, check out Where to Stay in Venice: Guide to Venice Neighbourhoods

San Marco is surely the most famous Venice neighbourhood, including such world-class attractions as the Basilica, the Doge’s Palace and the Correr Museum.

For all the details, see San Marco: Guide to Venice’s Most Famous Neighbourhood

crowds in San Marco square

San Polo isn’t far behind, however, as the oldest neighbourhood in Venice and home to the wildly popular Rialto Markets.

For more info, see San Polo: Guide to Venice’s Most Lively Neighbourhood

Rialto bridge in San Polo Venice

Dorsoduro is the place to go for museums, including the Guggenheim collection, Accademia Gallery and the relatively new Punta della Dogana museum.

Also see Dorsoduro: Guide to Venice’s Best Walking District

Dorsoduro church from a distance

Running neck and neck with Cannaregio for the most “real” and local of the sestiere, Castello boasts many excellent trattoria and unique art.

For more details, check out Castello: Guide to Venice’s Most Authentic Neighbourhood

Canal in Venice

Last but not least, Santa Croce includes the Harbor of San Basilio and parking area of Piazzale Roma, serving as the city’s transportation hub.

To find the hidden gems of this underrated sestiere, see Santa Croce: A Guide to Venice’s Least-Known Neighbourhood

I Frari church on a canal in Santa Croce Venice

Where to Stay: Best Cannaregio Venice Hotels

Here are some great choices of Cannaregio hotels. Whether you are looking to splash out a little, want a B&B or are looking for something a little more budget there is a hotel in Cannaregio Venice that will be perfect for you. Of all the neighborhoods in Venice Cannaregio is the one we think is the best to stay in.

Eurostars Residenza Cannaregio

A former monastery, Eurostars Cannaregio boasts a quiet, secluded location in the Jewish Quarter and is one of the better hotels in Cannaregio Venice. It has a nice mix of old (wood-beam ceilings) and new (A/C and fast wifi). There are some rooms with views of the San Alvise canal.

Click here for Eurostars Residenza Cannaregio prices

Alla Vite Dorata

Alla Vite Dorata is a great pick if you are looking for a Cannaregio B&B. It is about a 10-minute walk to the famous Rialto Bridge, they have rooms with canal views and guests speak highly of their buffet breakfast (cakes, cold cuts, cheese and homemade croissants). Even though it is close to the main attractions it manages to be just off the main tourist route.

Click here for Alla Vite Dorata prices

Al Mascaron Ridente

For one of the more exceptional budget choices among Cannaregio hotels, check out Al Mascaron Ridente. It is located on a vibrant street full of good restaurants and bars but the rooms are inside on a quiet courtyard. The en-suite rooms have high wood ceilings, wifi and minibars and the breakfast area has a glass floor looking down onto the canal.

Click here for Al Mascaron Ridente prices

The 14 Best Things to do in Cannaregio Venice

Even though Cannaregio isn’t the most famous or popular Venice neighbourhood, there is still so much to see and do that you could spend days without getting bored. Of course, as with anywhere in Venice, getting hopelessly lost and wandering in confusing circles is all part of the fun and, rest assured, Cannaregio offers plenty of opportunities to do that.

Below we’ve described all the best things to do in Cannaregio but there is no substitute for a local guide when it comes to really exploring a place. Booking a Private Cannaregio and Jewish Quarter Walking Tour can provide a lot more insight than you get by simply wandering.

Aperol
Remember to take a break along the way

But if you are also hoping to (at least occasionally) accomplish something and experience of few highlights, this list should help you organize your time. Now here is our list of the best things to do in Cannaregio Italy.

1. See History in the Cannaregio Jewish Ghetto

The Cannaregio Jewish Ghetto is a great place to start your explorations. Its origins were rather ordinary, starting out as a metal foundry where metalworkers based themselves in the 15th century, soon morphing into a more residential area for Christians.

To get a firsthand, guided tour and learn all the background history on this famous location, we would recommend booking a spot on a Jewish Ghetto Walking Tour.

Old buildings

However, in 1516 the powers that be in Venice enacted a forced reshuffle, evicting the Christians and forcing the city’s Jews into confinement there. They were allowed to move around, trade and do business during the day but only as long as they wore an identifying sign. And at night they were required to remain within the gates of the ghetto. A sobering reminder that racism has been insanely prevalent throughout history.

Many consider the Cannaregio ghetto to be the first Jewish ghetto in the world (a rather dubious accomplishment). The Italian word for a metal foundry is “geti”, which is where the word “ghetto” originated.

Short street

Finally, after nearly three centuries of oppression, Napoleon’s army arrived in 1797, destroying the gates of the ghetto and planting a “liberty tree” in the centre of the main square, which is now known as “Campo di Ghetto Nuovo” (new Jewish camp). Today it features the Jewish Museum and several of the oldest synagogues in Venice. While they are fairly understated and sometimes hard to recognize, if you pay attention to the details you should be able to spot them:

Scuola Grande Tedesca (Great German Synagogue) was built in 1528 and is the oldest synagogue in Venice. It is located in the same building as the Jewish museum and is famous for its 5 impressive arched windows (although 3 of them are now bricked up).

Scuola Italiana dates back to 1575 and has a small baroque dome and is inscribed with the name “Santa Comunità Italiana”.

Built in 1531, the Scuola Canton is right next to the Scuolo Italiana and can be recognized by its small wooden dome.

Old buildings

2. Wander the Cannaregio Canal

The Rio di Cannaregio, or Cannaregio Canal, is the second-largest canal in all of Venice. Before the island was connected to the mainland by rail this was the main transportation route into and out of the city.

Canal in Cannaregio Venice

Wandering along its scenic banks is understandably one of the most enjoyable ways to pass time in Cannaregio.

3. Squeeze into Calle Varisco: The Narrowest Street in Venice

This tiny dead-end street is located deep within a maze of confusingly twisted alleys, making it one of the most secluded spots in all of Venice. Wonderful Calle Varisco is just 53 centimetres (21 inches) wide and topped by a series of terrific little arches.

Narrow street in Cannaregio Venice

Of course, it isn’t just about checking out a scenic street and awesome photo op, Calle Varisco also comes with a serious reputation for supernatural justice. Local legend claims that Calle Varisco serves the good of all mankind by punishing impure souls, the walls slowly coming together to crush any murderers attempting to walk its hallowed length.

Narrow street

So, not the place to come if you’re on the run from a pesky homicide charge back home, but those with a slightly less checkered past should be fine.

4. Catch the Sunset on the Fondamenta Ormesini

The Fondamenta degli Ormesini means “dealers of Ormesin”, referring to a specific, intricate fabric from the Persian city of Ormuz. Located across a fantastic black iron bridge, this cool area is an excellent place to wander the canals and maybe stop in for a drink to sit back and admire an amazing Venice sunset.

Busy canal
Having a sunset beer

A pleasant, scenic walk along the canal lined with attractive bars (bacaros) and restaurants, including the relatively famous Paradiso Perduto. It is a bit of a Cannaregio tradition to stroll the Fondamenta della Misericordia stopping to try spritz (wine-based aperitif) and cicchetti (Italian version of tapas) at numerous places along the way. You are usually welcome to take your treasures to enjoy down by the water.

One of the best spots is the Dodo Caffe, a popular local hangout known for its caffe coretto con grappa where you are more likely to come across Cannaregio construction workers, local families or in-the-know regulars than a single tourist.

Another good choice is Al Timon, popular with young Venetians and local students, where seats along the canal are always in high demand. They also added a couple boats in the canal for people to sit on to enjoy their cicchetti.

Restaurant lined canal in Cannaregio Venice
Al Timon

Even though Cannaregio Venice is a much quieter area than San Marco or San Polo, it can still be tough to find a table with views of the vaporetti, motoscafi (water taxis) and cargo ships.

Busy canal at night in Cannaregio Venice

We wandered the full length of the Fondamenta Ormesini many times and while we loved it as the sun went down and it was hopping with people, by far our favourite time was just after sunrise as the local people were just starting to get out and about.

5. Find Your Favourite Bridge

Venice is world-famous for its 150 canals and the more than 400 bridges helping people cross them. Each has its own level of charm but, as with anywhere in Venice, there are some Cannaregio bridges that stand out from the rest.

Laynni has always had a soft spot for canals and bridges, part of the reason we keep coming back to Venice, and Cannaregio has some of the best Venice bridges. Many of which can be found on one of the popular Private Venice Photo Spots Walking Tours that show people around all the best viewpoints in the city.

Ponte delle Guglie (Bridge of Spires) is the only bridge in Venice with these unique spires, plus it is adorned with some impressive gargoyles to boot.

Ponte delle Guglie bridge in Cannaregio Venice
Ponte delle Guglie

Ponte de Gheto Novo (Bridge of the New Ghetto) is the photogenic metal bridge leading across to Cannaregio Ghetto.

The baroque Ponte dei Tre Archi (Bridge of Three Arches) is the only bridge in Venice with three arches that is still standing, built all the way back in 1681.

Bridge in Cannaregio Venice
Ponte dei Tre Archi

Meanwhile, the only Venetian bridge left with absolutely no railings or barriers is Ponte Chiodo (Nail Bridge), named after the noble family who previously owned it.

Canal with bridge in Cannaregio Venice
Ponte Chiodo

6. Check Out the Palazzos

Once again, there are a lot of outstanding choices but a few particular favourites:

Palazzo Labia

This baroque palace built in the 17th and 18th century is remarkable for its exceptional ballroom full of frescoes painted by Giovanni Battista Tiepolo and decorations by Gerolamo Mengozzi-Colonna.

Old cannaregio palazzo

It features both a beautiful front along the Grand Canal and a formal façade in back and along the Cannaregio Canal down the side.

Ca’ d’Oro (Palazzo Santa Sofia)

One of the oldest palazzos in Venice, it was named Ca’ d’Oro (Golden House) because of the intricate adornments and gilt edges.

Old building on canal

Some consider it the best remaining Venetian Gothic palace and it is somewhat reminiscent of a castle from the outside. Ever since 1927 it has served as a museum and public gallery – Galleria Giorgio Franchetti all Ca’ d’Oro.

Palazzo Correr Contarini Zorzi (Ca’ dei Cuori)

This Renaissance Venetian palace overlooking the Grand Canal can be found between Palazzo Querini Papozze and Palazzo Gritti. The wrought-iron coat of arms of the Cuori family can be seen on the 17th century façade along with a pair of impressive water portals. Unlike some of the others, the Palazzo Correr Contarini Zorzi is best seen from the other side of the Grand Canal.

Palazzo Falier

This unassuming civil building with a hotel on the first floor is actually one of the oldest buildings in Venice. Dating all the way back to the 11th century, it features a distinctive 6-arch arcade with a fabulous location overlooking the neighbouring campo and the Rio dei Santi Apostoli.

7. Wander the Cemetery at Isola di San Michele

This fascinating old cemetery is located on an island in the middle of the bay just a short vaporetto (4/1 or 4/2) across from Fondamente Nove, on the way to or from Murano. This peaceful spot provides an inside look at how local Venetians honour their deceased loved ones.

For the most thorough exploration of this iconic island, we would recommend joining a San Michele Vaporetto and Walking Tour.

Island with cemetary

There are no shops or restaurants and no vaporetto ticket counter (make sure you purchase a return vaporetto ticket before arriving). However, there is a reception office with maps (but usually no people), it is free to enter but photography is not allowed inside. The maps don’t tell you the location of famous sites, however, and are only marginally useful for finding your way, but the entire Cimitero di San Michele is surrounded by a photogenic red brick wall.

It can be strangely compelling to wander the hallowed paths of this classic cemetery. The 15th century renaissance Church of San Michele is rarely open but is still nice to look at.

Church on island

Many famous people are buried here, including Russian composer, Igor Stravinsky, author Ezra Pound and Sergei Diaghilev, whose grave usually sports an evocative pile of pink ballet shoes left by fans.

8. Spend Time in Cannaregio Churches

Venice is chock full of beautiful churches, many of them located in Cannaregio.

Santa Maria di Nazareth Church

Built in 1672, this Roman Catholic Carmelite church is considered one of the most beautiful churches in Venice. From the unique twisted columns to the interior paintings, gilded organ, decorative altar and impressive sculptures to the fantastic gardens, the Santa Maria di Nazareth is a must-see.

Church in Cannaregio Venice
Santa Maria di Nazareth Church

There is no charge to visit but a donation is appreciated.

Madonna dell’Orto Church

Dating all the way back to the 14th century, this Gothic masterpiece is impressive enough on its own (watch for the herringbone pavement) but also features a collection of paintings by the famous Tintoretto (who also happens to be buried inside).

Church in Cannaregio Venice
Madonna dell’Orto Church

There is a small entrance fee but it is still well worth a stop.

Inside of church

Santa Maria dei Miracoli Church

A 15th century Pietro Lombardo Renaissance gem, the otherwise simple “marble church” literally glows in the sunshine, inside and out. In addition, it features an incredible “Virgin and Child Between Two Saints” commissioned by Angelo Amadi which is said to be miraculous itself.

Church in Cannaregio Venice
Santa Maria dei Miracoli Church

Be sure to follow the large staircase up to the altar where the ceiling is covered in panels painted by Pier Maria Pennacchi. And if you can, time your visit to be there on a sunny day to get the full effect of the marble.

9. Find the Campo dei Mori

While the square itself doesn’t stand out visually, it has some fascinating statues and a rather bizarre history. There are three statues carved into the walls of the square depicting three Moorish brothers (Rioba, Sandi and Afani) of the Mastelli del Cammello family that built much of the area.

Statue on side of building

Local folklore claims that these three merchants, who were in banking, among many other things, had at one point defrauded a devout Venetian woman. After she responded by praying to Santa Maria Maddalena to curse the brothers, her wish was granted and they were turned to stone and placed in the Campo dei Mori as a warning to others.

Then, in the 19th century, the nose of Sior Antonio Rioba fell off (or somehow disappeared) and was replaced by a piece of iron (naturally). More strangely, a legend developed from that time forward that rubbing his iron nose would bring good luck.

Man touching statue nose

Others used it as a political platform, hanging satirical political commentary from it.

And if all that isn’t interesting enough, just around the corner from Campo dei Mori you will find the Palazzo Mastelli, which features a really odd stone camel. So there’s that.

Camel statue

10. Take a Gondola Ride

The classic Venetian experience, cruising the narrow canals of the city by gondola is always a memorable experience. You can hire a gondola at nearly any of the busier docks or book a Private Bridge of Sighs Gondola Ride to know you’re getting an experienced, highly-recommend trip.

If the traditional gondola ride seems a little too passive for your tastes, maybe you want to learn to row one yourself. Head down to Row Venice to sign up – €85 for 90 minutes (1-2 people).

11. Find the Hidden Gems on Rio Madonna dell’Orto

There are a couple of bonus, off-the-beaten-path attractions to check out along the Rio Madonna dell’Orto. First, check out the oddly tall, skinny house set back off the canal at Campo San Felice. Then continue farther down the canal to a cute little bridge overlooking a hidden marina.

12. Take a Break at the Best Cannaregio Coffee Shop: Torrefazione Cannaregio

Along with a terrific location right on the canal and an interesting mix of tourists and locals, the affordable café Torrefozione Cannaregio has a lot of outstanding pastries (including vegan options), good wifi, indoor and outdoor seating and, most importantly, excellent coffee.

Coffee shop window

The knowledgeable baristas can help you make the right choice among their wide range of specialty coffees and it is a good place to pick up some locally roasted coffee to take back to the folks at home.

For an even more thorough look at food in Venice, you could join a Venice Street Food Tour and Tasting group. They’ll show you all the best spots and give you a chance to try them out.

13. Cool Down with a Gelato

There are a lot of choices for gelato but we personally enjoyed Bacaro del Gelato. Its on Fondamente Misericordia so you can grab a gelato and continue your stroll down one of Venice’s best streets.

Gelato

14. Take a Day Trip to a Venice Island – Burano, Murano or Torcello

These captivating little islands each have their own specific charms and highlights. And Cannaregio is the most convenient departure point for day trips across the lagoon.

Canal in Murano
Murano

The vaporetto takes you from Fondamenta Nove to the famous Venetian glass studios of Murano, the mysterious little island of Torcello and the vividly colourful Instagram sensation, Burano.

Bright houses in Burano Venice
The colourful Burano houses

We easily visited all three in one day trip.

For more details, check out How to Visit Murano and Burano on an Independent Day Trip from Venice or, if you prefer to have someone else take care of all the transportation details, you could join one of the very affordable Murano and Burano Small Group Boat Tours.

Church in Torcello
Torcello

Map of Cannaregio Venice

Click the star to save this map to your Google Maps – then find it under Saved/Maps (mobile) or Your Places/Maps (desktop)

Where to Eat: Best Cannaregio Restaurants

There are lots of choices for places to eat in Cannaregio district in Venice but these are consistently peoples’ favourites.

Osteria Al Cicheto is known for its awesome cicchetti and several other typical Venetian dishes. They have a small menu but what they do, they do well.

Al Timon, which we mentioned earlier, is a nice, rustic restaurant with a fantastic location with tables right on a boat on the canal. It is probably the most popular hangout in Cannaregio Venice thanks to its outstanding wine, spritz and cicchetti.

Steak and potatoes at Cannaregio restaurant
Lombatello platter at Al Timon

They also have very good pasta and the Lombatello with potatoes and vegetables comes highly recommended.

Trattoria Bar Pontini is a small, atmospheric Venetian bar with outdoor seating that serves fresh, hearty traditional dishes and local wines.

People sitting at Cannaregio restaurant
Trattoria Bar Pontini

The seafood pastas get rave reviews. It gets pretty busy so it is a good idea to make a reservation.

Bepi Antico has outstanding pasta, a good selection of fresh fish and pretty reasonable prices considering how close it is to the Rialto Bridge. This is the location just off the Santi Apostoli square and apparently it is much better than the other location, Trattoria de Bepi.

Venice Tourist Tax

Everybody’s talking about the new Venice tourist tax so we thought we should share everything we know about it at this point.

For more than a decade, Venice hotels have had to charge an overnight stay tax, or “tassa di soggiorno”, so nothing new there. This tax is between €1 and €5 per person per night for up to 5 nights. The exact amount is determined by the hotel rating, length of stay and number of people. It is paid directly to your hotel and no tax is charged for the sixth night and beyond.

Bridge in the San Marco district

The second tax, however, is new (or will be, theoretically). Venice sees over 20 million day trippers annually and this new day-trippers tax, or “contributo di accesso”, is intended to both control tourist numbers and generate revenue for maintenance and cleaning. At this point, though, it is not likely to happen in 2023.

Once it does come into force, each day will be ranked based on projected demand and the fee will vary from €3-10, with higher prices being charged at the busiest times. Children under 6 will not have to pay and there is a small list of other exemptions (residents, relatives, hospital visits, disabilities, visiting football fans, for some reason).

It will also be necessary to pre-book your visit and pay the pay the fee online. The important thing to remember, though, is that as long as you stay for more than one night, you will only have to pay one tax or the other.

However, and it is a very big however, is that due to protests over the exact details of the plan and the lack of any sort of functioning website, the tax is no longer happening this year. Originally scheduled for the summer of 2022, then postponed to January 16, 2023, then backed up again to May 2023, now it is not expected to be implemented until 2024. And some are skeptical that it will ever happen.

So, although it is worth knowing the situation, the only tourist tax you should have to worry about in 2023 is the relatively minor hotel tax that has already been in force for years.

View from Rialto Bridge

Trip Planning Resources

Here is a list of the most important resources we use when planning our travels, all in one convenient spot. Full disclosure, when you use any of these links to reserve or sign up for something, we receive a small commission which is greatly appreciated. However, your price does not change and we have only included products and websites that we can honestly recommend.

  • Venice is easily accessible from many international destinations and most discount airlines have good prices to this popular city. For checking out flights we usually find that SkyScanner is the fastest and most accurate site.
  • It can be difficult to find affordable hotels in Venice but if you book well ahead on a site like Booking.com there are still deals to be had. We use it for almost all our hotel reservations now and with frequent stay discounts, thousands of reviews and free cancellation, it is very rare for us to have a bad hotel experience.
  • Wise is by far the best international multicurrency bank account we’ve found and we use it all over Europe (and other parts of the world). We can now send and receive money in half a dozen different currencies, convert to dozens more with no exchange premium and pay or withdraw local currencies. Highly recommended.
  • When travelling we always get SIM cards with data for our phones. Local SIM cards are sometimes a bit cheaper but if you have a relatively new smartphone (iPhone XR or newer, Samsung S20 or newer) you can just buy an eSIM online, get a QR code by email and you’re good to go. After extensive research I have decided that KeepGo eSIMs have the best coverage and prices for most of our trips, with especially good deals within the EU.
  • We’ve used Discover Cars in Italy (as well as many other countries) and they usually have the cheapest deals and have always been very reliable.
  • World Nomads offers some of the best global travel insurance coverage. It is especially good for frequent travellers and digital nomads but also has competitive plans for short trips.
Building reflections in a Venice canal

Cannaregio Venice Summary

Historic Cannaregio does a great job of walking that fine line between local and touristy. With plenty of good accommodation, great restaurants and easy transportation links combined with a traditional feel and loads of classic Venetian architecture and history, it is the perfect place to base yourself for a few days (or more) of exploring the beauty of Venice.

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