Tzununa is one of the fastest growing villages on Lake Atitlan and it has been fascinating to watch its popularity increase. In the 15 years or so that we’ve been visiting Lake Atitlan, we watched it go from unknown and barely on the tourist radar to one of the trendiest places to stay.
San Marcos la Laguna has historically been the focus for spiritual / holistic / new age / hippie crowd, with some suggesting it is actually located on a spiritual energy vortex. Whether that is actually a thing, or if San Marcos just happens to be the place a lot of likeminded people began to gather, is mostly irrelevant.
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Because whatever the reason, San Marcos soon began to expand beyond its fairly meagre boundaries (tucked into a small area between the main Mayan village and the lake) and the overflow has increasingly set up shop in Tzununa, along with those who crave extra space and natural areas to focus on sustainable “back to the land” pursuits.
The name Tzununa (one of just three on the lake that still retain their Mayan name) means “hummingbird of the water” in the local Mayan dialect (Kaqchikel), and the area is sometimes referred to as Hummingbird Valley. A small river runs through the valley down from the tall ridge behind Tzununá, featuring a hidden waterfall and passing through a wide range of forest, farms and mini-villages.
With a pretty backdrop, the standard excellent views of the lake and volcanoes and more available space than other villages, Tzununá has become the latest expat hotspot and the perfect place to experiment with an astounding variety of alternative hobbies, lifestyles and farming methods.
However, it still very much retains the feel of a traditional Guatemalan village. Despite its growing expat community, Tzununá is still much quieter and offers a much slower pace of life than busier tourist centres like San Marcos or backpacker central San Pedro. And, even though we think the best place to stay is Pasaj-Cap Rentals on the lakefront between Tzununá and San Marcos, if it isn’t available or you want to check out some of the interesting Tzununá options, this great local village is an excellent choice.
The 12 Best Things to Do in Tzununá
1. Take a Permaculture Tour or Course
Atitlan Organics teaches people about permaculture farming through both short tours (just the basics, please) and full tours (give me the works). Organized tours involve about 2 hours of exploring and explaining around the farm followed by a short waterfall hike.
The courses, as you might expect, are far more involved. In the main Permaculture Design Course you will learn every aspect of building and maintaining a functional permaculture farm, as well as how it can benefit the community as a whole. From theory to getting your hands really dirty to coordinating and collaborating with local Mayan farmers, you can expect a thorough education.
A Dutch couple we met at Pasajcap a few years ago took this permaculture course, raved about it and have since gone on to design, construct and run their own successful permaculture farm/hotel/home in the south of France called Petite Vallee (as well as procreate, although I assume they learned that elsewhere).
Other courses include Elements of Natural Building, Sacred Earth Yoga Teacher Training + Permaculture, Composting Chickens and Intuitive Plant Propagation. They also sell fruit, vegetables, eggs and chicken produced on the farm.
2. Shop for Traditional Handicrafts
There are a few traditional craft shops in Tzununá where you can find beautiful Mayan creations in the local styles. Unlike some of the large, impersonal shops found in Pana or San Pedro, the stalls in Tzununá are entirely managed and supplied by local artisans.
3. Try Ecstatic Dancing
If you find regular dancing no longer excites you, consider square dancing too political and the tango simply too hard to learn, maybe ecstatic dancing is just the thing! Gaia Dance Temple holds periodic events where enthusiasts can come to shake it out with likeminded individuals. Remember to hydrate.
4. Learn About Mushrooms and Herbal Medicine
While still in the permaculture family, you can get even more specific by focusing on the surprisingly varied role of mushrooms with regard to both nutrition and medicine. The Fungi Academy offers courses where you will learn how to grow and/or collect a wide range of mushrooms from gourmet to medicinal to the sacred.
Meanwhile, Casa Curativa specializes in thorough knowledge of herbal plants and medicine, offering classes such as Herbalism for Women, spa stays, Apothecary courses and natural birth retreats.
5. Support a Non-Profit Organization
Tzununa boasts two key organizations that provide support and education to the community.
Chi Tz´Unun Choy was established in 2007 thanks in large part to support from Lomas de Tzununa and Casa Kuk. They offer a variety of classes – including painting, crochet and embroidery – and provide scholarships for further learning in those fields as well as cooking, carpentry and iron work.
Meanwhile, Wellkind also contributes to local scholarships and funds many different projects focusing on sustainable environmental initiatives, leadership retreats, major tree planting projects, water filtration and repurposing, gardening, artisan projects and their own tree nursery.
6. Sweat it Out in a Temascal
Temascal are ancient Mayan saunas, similar to Indigenous sweat lodges in North America, that have been used for centuries to cleanse mind, body and spirit. And make you sweat. A lot.
The mud and stone temascal has been built in the traditional style and features a wood-fire barrel filled with volcanic stones to produce the perfect dry heat (and suddenly the Arizona snowbirds’ ears perk up – “Dry heat, exactly, it’s the best, that’s what I’ve been trying to tell you”).
And if you are the sort who thinks the body needs a good shock every now and then, just to keep it honest, well, there is a perfectly shocking cold shower just outside.
7. Check Out the View at Lomas de Tzununá
One of the best places on the lake for a drink with an incredible view is the terrace at Lomas de Tzununá. You can brave the tiring hike up to its location high on the hill or you can take a tuk-tuk from the village.
You may also want to check out our list of the 16 Best Lake Atitlan Photo Spots
These days they mainly cater to private groups so if you’re hoping to have food or a drink you’ll need to call ahead and make sure they are open to the public. Even if they aren’t, though, the views are amazing from all around it.
8. Check out the Tzununa Market
Established in 2020 through cooperation of Wellkind, Chi Tz´Unun Choy and other local leaders, this energetic Sunday market has quickly become a focal point of the village. You can find everything from terrific Guatemalan fruits and vegetables to clothing, furniture and supplies.
9. Take a Yoga Class or Join a Yoga Retreat
Doron Yoga
The Doron Yoga & Zen Center features a vast array of yoga options including a style developed by Doron himself, plus ashtanga, vinyasa, yin, and pranayama. Sometimes they allow drop-ins, while other times they focus on retreats and yoga teacher trainings so be sure to check in for the latest.
These retreats and trainings tend to be fairly intense with a focus on you learning as much as possible during your time there. Of course, there is also time for hikes, tours and relaxation as well. Accommodation and meals are included and the buffet-style vegetarian meals are largely sourced from their own farm.
You might also want to check out our full list of the Best Yoga Retreats on Lake Atitlan.
You can choose from rooms with a view, private bathrooms and balconies with hammocks to more basic rooms with shared bathrooms. There are a variety of hammocks, meditation spots and cozy places to hang out in the lush grounds and restaurant during your down time.
They also have meditation sessions and every activity at Doron incorporates nutrition, breathing and mind training.
10. Head Out on a Hike
The beautiful ridge hike that runs above the north shore is one of our two or three favourite hikes on the lake. Walking between Santa Cruz and Tzununá will take around 1.5 – 2.5 hrs and offers a superb combination of spectacular views, manageable inclines and rural life.
There have been occasional robberies on this trail, though, so we recommend hiking in a group and not carrying any valuables with you.
There is also a hike to the Tzununá waterfall if you walk up the valley past Atitlan Organics farm. Once off the road the trail goes along a river that you have to cross over a couple times before reaching the waterfall. It is best during rainy season as there may only be a trickle at the end of the dry season.
There are also several trails in the hills above the town that can be explored with a local guide or by following the GPS tracks in our Guide to Hiking on Lake Atitlan.
If you aren’t keen on working out your own transportation and following a GPS track, you can sign up for a scenic 4-hr hike ridge hike on the crater rim above Santa Cruz la Laguna. The tour starts and ends in Panajachel but you can meet up with them in Santa Cruz. The hike will take you past a sacred Mayan site before finishing in the traditional town of Sololá with lunch at a local comedor.
11. Join an Atitlan Bike and Kayak Trip
Outdoorsy types with extra time on the lake will love the Atitlán Bike and Kayak Adventure Tour which gives them a chance to experience the wilder side of Lake Atitlán away from the tourist shops and restaurants. Starting in Jaibalito, this 2-day tour includes meals and hotel (plus transportation from Panajachel or Antigua if needed) and involves mountain biking down from the crater rim, hiking between villages, kayaking on the lake and even cliff jumping.
12. Explore Lake Atitlan’s Villages
Every village on Lake Atitlan in Guatemala has its own character and at least one or two good reasons for a visit. If you are staying on the lake for a few weeks or more you should be able to explore them all one at a time. San Marcos is similar to Tzununá, known for its holistic and spiritual pursuits. San Pedro, on the other hand, is the busy backpacker hangout with the best nightlife and pretty San Juan is the place to go for local art.
However, there are also Jaibalito, Santa Cruz and Panajachel (Pana). Los Elementos in Santa Cruz runs one of the best all-day adventure tours that includes kayaking, swimming, hiking, rock climbing, cliff jumping (optional, obviously), archery, trampolines and, if you behave, even some time to relax with a view. This trip is very popular with families.
There are also several other interesting villages over on the other side of the lake – Santa Catarina Palopo, San Antonio Palopo, San Lucas Toliman and Santiago Atitlan.
If you don’t have a lot of extra time but still want to enjoy the best parts of the lake, the most efficient way is to sign up for a full-day Lake Atitlan boat tour. It starts in Panajachel but they can pick you up in Tzununa if you prefer. Along with enjoying the fabulous scenery all the way around the lake, this 6-hour tour includes stops in traditional Santiago Atitlán, gorgeous San Juan la Laguna and local coffee plantations and textile shops.
Where to Stay: The Best Tzununá Hotels
El Picnic Atitlan
For a unique stay in Tzununá, check out El Picnic Atitlan. Tranquil, off the beaten path glamping with amazing views of the lake and volcanoes. Each tent has a balcony and private bathroom.
And if glamping isn’t really up your alley you can book the “luxury tent”, which is basically a room partially open to both the views and elements. Be aware that the views come at the cost of climbing quite a few stairs to reach your room.
On the bright side, there is also a restaurant on site, a giant screen to enjoy nightly movies with the lake and volcanoes in the background and an 18-hole mini-golf course that the kids (and possibly adults) will love.
Cabanas de Tzununá
Conveniently located in the middle of the village, the options at Cabanas de Tzununá range from double rooms to bungalows. There are relaxing gardens and lake access, including a private swimming dock. Just be aware that the hotel can be a bit hard to find and the local neighborhood can get a little noisy at times.
Maya Moon Lodge
In addition to its superb restaurant, Maya Moon Lodge has 4 cabanas with views of the lake, ranging from small ones for 1-2 people and larger ones for 1-4 people. One unit even has a kitchenette if you want to cook some of your own meals, although that one is directly above the restaurant and can be noisy. In general, there can be a bit of a party atmosphere at times.
Each cabana has a balcony or veranda and a private bathroom. Maya Moon also has tubes and a kayak for guests to use and a private dock where you can easily catch boats to explore surrounding villages. And if you’re really lucky you might see a dishevelled British man dragging himself from the water at the end of a long swim.
Lomas de Tzununá
Lomas de Tzununá is known for its views, which is why it made our list of Things to Do as the best place to enjoy a scenic view or possibly a drink. Unfortunately, these days they mainly focus on private group retreats although it is worth checking with them to see if they can accommodate you or your group.
However, Lomas also offers a variety of rooms that take full advantage of those views, as well as a pool to cool off in. They also have a traditional temascal and host many specialized retreats.
It’s a climb to get up to Lomas de Tzununá but you can also take a tuk tuk from the Tzununá dock. They also have kayaks for guests to use.
Lake Atitlan Map
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How to Get to Tzununá
For a detailed breakdown on your options for getting to the lake, check out:
Lake Atitlan Transportation: Getting There and Away
Tzununá is located on the northern shore of Lake Atitlán. It is accessible either by rough dirt road from San Marcos or very rough road down from the top of the ridge. Driving from Guatemala City will take 3.5-4.5 hours.
You can also take a tourist shuttle or “chicken bus” to Panajachel, then take a local “lancha” (boat) to Tzununá. Shuttles from Guatemala City to Panajachel usually take 3-4 hours and cost around 200-250 quetzales ($US25-35). Shuttles from Antigua or Xela to Panajachel will be a bit shorter (2-3 hours) and cost just 100-150Q ($15-20) because it is a much more common route.
The best way to get around the lake is by public lancha, the small boats that run roughly every 20 minutes all around the lake. You pay when you get off and the price is based on how far you’ve gone, varying from 5Q ($0.60) between neighbouring villages to 50Q ($7) to go all the way across the lake.
There are different prices for locals, expats and tourists but if you’re new you will probably pay 20-30Q from Panajachel to Tzununá (20-30 minutes). In the other direction, San Marcos is just 5 minutes (10Q) and San Pedro is about 15 minutes (15Q).
Another option is to take a tuk tuk to San Marcos (10-20Q), which might be faster (depending on how long you have to wait for the next boat) but is most definitely bumpier.
Where to Eat
Maya Moon Lodge
With a fantastic waterfront location a 5-minute walk from Tzununa toward San Marcos, Maya Moon serves hearty, delicious meals (including vegetarian options), baked goods and excellent happy hour specials from 3:30 to 5:30. We’re big fans of their breakfast, as well.
It also has the proud distinction of being the finish line for the Pasajcap Water Olympics, which really just involve 2 or 3 middle-aged dudes (slowly) swimming from Pasajcap to Maya Moon. It takes place weekly, or sometimes monthly, occasionally just annually or, if you’re a merely functional but very unmotivated swimmer, for example, you may just do it the one time and complain about how cold you got for the rest of time. So I’ve heard.
El Colibri
Partway up the hill toward the local section of the village, this simple, unassuming place offers good, affordable meals locally sourced from nearby farms. They offer a mix of local favourites (tipico breakfast, tacos) and more diverse choices (quiche, sandwich/salad combos).
There is also a hostel on site and the bar can be a popular hangout with people in the area.
Restaurante Balam
Unique dishes, phenomenal views and local farm-to-table food make Restaurante Balam a welcome recent addition to the Tzununá culinary scene.
They have sandwiches, burgers, wraps featuring organic meat, no meat, and vegan or gluten-free versions, and is also the place to go in Tzununá for craft beer (along with smoothies and probiotics and the like).
They have also opened a second location – B’alam Bistro – down on the road leading out of town toward Jaibalito.
Quick Links
Here are some of our most popular Lake Atitlan posts to help you plan your trip to Tzununa.
Best Yoga Retreats on Lake Atitlan
Best Places to Swim in Lake Atitlan
Best Day Trips from Lake Atitlan
Trip Planning Resources
Here is a list of the most important resources we use when planning our travels, all in one convenient spot. Full disclosure, when you use any of these links to reserve or sign up for something, we receive a small commission which is greatly appreciated. However, your price does not change and we have only included products and websites that we can honestly recommend.
- DuckDuckGo is now far and away the best search engine for travel planning. While Google still provides quick answers to a specific questions, the rest of the results are completely overrun by ads and big company sites with only vaguely related info. DuckDuckGo, on the other hand, still offers useful lists of firsthand articles and posts about potential destinations, perfect for planning your next trip.
- We book the majority of our hotels on Booking.com. With frequent stay discounts, thousands of reviews and free cancellation, it is very rare for us to have a bad hotel experience these days.
- Wise is by far the best international multicurrency bank account we’ve found. We can now send and receive money in half a dozen different currencies, convert to dozens more with no exchange premium and pay or withdraw local currencies. Highly recommended.
- When travelling we always get SIM cards with data for our phones. Local SIM cards are sometimes a bit cheaper but if you have a relatively new smartphone (iPhone XR or newer, Samsung S20 or newer) you can just buy an eSIM online, get a QR code by email and you’re good to go. After extensive research we have found that JetPac sim cards usually have the best coverage and prices.
- If you’re interested in local guided tours, including everything from city tours to cooking lessons to adventure activities, check out the huge range of options at Get Your Guide.
Summary
In just a few short years, Tzununá has gone from the place most tourists had never even heard of to on the edge of rivalling San Marcos for holistic and spiritual pursuits. Whether it will find the balance between growth and overdevelopment that other villages around Lake Atitlan have struggled with in the past remains to be seen but, for now, Tzununá boasts a small but enthusiastic expat community with many fascinating options you won’t find anywhere else on the lake.
Other useful articles you may want to check out:
San Marcos la Laguna: A Guide to Lake Atitlan’s Spiritual Village
Pasajcap Rentals: Our Favourite Place to Stay on the Lake
San Juan la Laguna: A Guide to Lake Atitlan’s Artistic Village
San Pedro la Laguna: A Guide to Lake Atitlan’s Most Popular Village
Jaibalito: A Guide to Lake Atitlan’s Quietest Village
Santa Cruz la Laguna: A Guide to Lake Atitlan’s Village with the Best Views
Panajachel Guatemala: Gateway to Stunning Lake Atitlan
Santa Catarina Palopo: A Guide to Lake Atitlan’s Most Colourful Village
San Antonio Palopo: A Guide to Lake Atitlan’s Pottery Village
San Lucas Toliman: Guide to Lake Atitlan’s Secret Village
Santiago Atitlan: Guide to an Authentic Mayan Town
