Ubud is the cultural, spiritual and monkey capital of Bali. And one of the most popular tourist destinations on a tropical island full of popular tourist destinations. Ancient temples, beautiful rice fields, clever new age side hustles – Ubud has a lot going for it. Including many different areas and neighbourhoods, each of which offers quite a different experience. So, today, we’re going to focus on the Sari Organic Walk, an increasingly popular path running for about 3 kilometres through the rice fields, conveniently lined with aesthetic cafés, local art galleries, yoga shalas, villas for rent and, obviously, construction. Lots of construction. This is Bali, after all.
The key, though, is that the Sari Organic Walk is still just a path. Not a road, just a line of paving stones that never gets wide enough for a car and is occasionally almost too narrow for a pair of wide-hipped tourists to pass each other comfortably. And, with no cars, construction is typically limited to hand tools, wheelbarrows and small appliances, like construction from a simpler time. The 80’s, maybe, based on the music. But no big trucks, backhoes or cranes, I guess is the point.
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However, despite the steady commercial growth, the area retains a lot of its beauty and natural charm. Originally named after a popular restaurant called Sari Organik that was known for its lovely location in the rice fields, the restaurant has since moved across town to the similarly rustic Penestanan area, yet the original path lives on. Still 75% rice fields, the Sari Organic Walk remains a haven for wildlife and birds and eager amateur photographers that, as much as they’d love to rise above it, simply can’t pass up a great “woman with conical hat hoeing a lush rice field” photo. Or, my personal cross to bear, a whole family of ducks inexplicably RACING from one field to the next. Like they’ve got anything else planned for the rest of the day. Or year. Adorable, but what’s the rush, bro?
So, now you understand why we chose to spend a good chunk of time on the Sari Organic Walk not once, but TWICE, on our most recent visit to wonderfully scenic, easy and affordable Bali. But if you’re thinking that the Sari Organic Walk is just, you know, a WALK, well, my friend, you are woefully underinformed. Oh, no, in fact, this iconic path offers a multitude of different types of trip, from adventurous to natural to spiritual to filling. But definitely hot, always hot.
So, to help you plan your visit, here are some suggested themes you can incorporate into your first, next or latest Sari Organic Walk stay. Because you know what they say, nothing makes travel more fun than working to achieve goals…
Wildlife Theme
If you love animals – be they domesticated and adorable or wild and skittish – the Sari Organic Walk is definitely for you. While Ubud proper is generally known for its famous Sacred Monkey Forest, in truth those little bastards don’t deserve your time or your things, the ones they will inevitably try to steal.
The wildlife on the Sari Organic Walk, though, these are some old school animals. Chickens scampering around like idiots, frogs that croak all night long for no good reason, geckos that still keep the smaller bedroom bugs in check at night even though they spend a good portion of their day scavenging through the trash bin.
Floor ants are just part of life, as long as they don’t get too uppity and start exploring pillows and whatnot, while lizards and snakes occasionally appear on trails but are pretty good about sharing, and there are literally birds everywhere. Big ones, small ones, loud ones, quiet ones, hovering ones, waddling ones, white ones, brown ones, white AND brown ones, etc. Nests appear without warning in rolled up blinds, wicker light shades and, presumably, even in the occasional tree. There are also lots of cats, almost all missing tails, and just a few dogs, almost none missing tails.
And then there are the ducks, which I suppose technically belong in the “birds” section but, then again, do they really? I mean, I assume these rice field ducks can fly because, well, I’m pretty sure all ducks can. But we’ve certainly never seen any evidence of it around here. Those fascinating little bastards just spend all day squawking away in the fields, foraging and flapping and fertilizing and such, every now and then VERY suddenly deciding it is time to move, frantically rushing to the next field like they are brave action heroes racing to slide under the descending door… just… in… time before it reaches the floor. Then it’s back to tottering around in circles and splashing like idiots. You know what they’re like.
Hiking Theme
Yes, it is hot in central Bali. Just like it’s hot in eastern Bali. And western Bali. And southern Bali, obviously. You know, now that I think about it, pretty much everywhere in Bali it is hot. Although, technically, Ubud is a little bit higher above sea level and, as a result, is possibly, just possibly, the tiniest fraction LESS hot. Now, does that mean you won’t return from even the easiest hike simply gross with sweat? No, of course not. You are going to sweat, and sweat a lot. But the scenery is really beautiful so, in the end, all that sweating just might be worth it. As long as you have multiple clean shirts because, believe me, they are often one and done in these parts.
So, as for actual trails, obviously, the Sari Organic Walk itself is trail number one. Unfortunately, it caters both to walking and scootering, so it doesn’t exactly feel like a wilderness trail. But it is still scenic as hell, plus those moped/scooters you have to dodge are part of the reason there are so many great restaurants to choose from.
Next up is the Sweet Orange Walk. If you go far enough north on the Sari Organic Walk you can eventually find a tiny bridge to cross over the eastern creek into an entirely different section of rice fields and jungle. Which is where you will find the Sweet Orange Walk, another beautiful little path through the rice fields with – so far – only a few shops and restaurants. It is definitely a nice walk.
Then, across the canyon to the west, you’ll find the Campuhan Ridge Walk. This one has been quite famous for years as the main “hike” in Ubud. Unfortunately, it no longer offers many of the things we generally look for in a walk or hike. Like scenery, for example.
There are three distinct sections to the modern Campuhan Ridge Walk. The first is mainly climbing stairs through the jungle. Atmospheric, but hardly unique and not exactly photogenic. The second is along the ridge, where you used to be able to enjoy lovely views down the grassy slopes to either side. No longer, however, as the trees lining the trail have grown up to the point that you can’t see much in either direction, and when you can see something it is usually just the top level of one or another fancy new hotel in the distance. The third and final section formerly featured picturesque rice fields but is now basically a village. A village strictly focused on selling art, souvenirs and trendy modern coffees. On the bright side, scooters still aren’t allowed on the Campuhan Ridge Walk, so there’s that.
Working Theme
Not everyone who shows up at the Sari Organic Walk is truly on holiday. Many are also working. Maybe not in the standard way most people imagine but remote work is a real – and continually growing – trend. Especially among people writing this blog. Being able to run our websites from anywhere in the world is literally the best part of being functionally unemployable.
The point is, if you want to combine your Bali travel with a bit of Bali work, the Sari Organic Walk is a great place to do it. Nice villas, good wifi, convenient restaurants, excellent scenery, frolicking muddy ducks to watch till your heart’s content. Other features of our terrific Purnama House rental:
Huge balcony with panoramic views
Practical sunshades helpful for using laptops outside
Semi-comfortable loungers perfect for outdoor doom scrolling
Mini-fridge for cereal, milk, bread and Oreos
An outdoor kitchen handy for the basics, such as making toast in a frying pan
A second balcony for collecting gecko shit and random feathers
Food Theme
One of the things we like most about Ubud is the wide range of food available. We do love certain Indonesian dishes, but not all of them, and when you’re eating out 2-3 times a day, everyday, having options is key.
In the main part of Ubud, which is about a 15-20 minute walk away from where we were staying, the possibilities are practically endless. There aren’t as many options Sari Organic Walk as there are in town. But still enough to keep you full and satisfied for several days without ever needing to venture farther, if you choose. Firstly, there are about half a dozen restaurants featuring a dozen variations of rice/noodles with pork/chicken in sauce/breading. Sign me up! To a point.
Then there are also various places offering fantastic pasta, surprisingly excellent grilled cheese, tasty fish and chips, decent burgers and even some reasonable Mexican facsimiles. And if all that still doesn’t cover your cravings, it’s just a short walk to Ubud, an even shorter Grab scooter or even shorter yet Grab delivery of Vietnamese, Greek, Italian, baguettes or any one of seventeen versions of Smashburger.
Rice Fields Theme
Frenetically foolish ducks aside, the rice fields are the best part of the Sari Organic Walk. Even better than that popcorn Laynni got me when my stomach was off for a couple days. Barely better, but better.
Coming from a country like Canada with a single, short growing season, we’ve never completely got our heads around how within a single neighbourhood you will see rice fields at a dozen different stages of growth. In Bali, they will literally be harvesting in one field while the next one is still flooded for seeding and the one after that that looks like it just hit its awkward adolescent phase (tall but skinny, uncomfortably stiff most of the time).
So the Sari Organic Walk features every kind of rice field scenery to enjoy, liberally sprinkled with fun touches like colourful Hindu shrines, thrilled flocks of birds following behind the tiller eagerly scooping up the many insectual treasures unearthed, plus the ladies wearing conical hats harvesting by hand with traditional scythe/knife combo while wiry little dudes stand in water up to their knees hoeing that shit by hand, presumably the same way it’s been done for centuries. Of course, I understand they would probably rather have the expensive modern technology that could accomplish all this in less time and with far less mud involved. But you can’t deny that the old methods give the place a real atmosphere.
Everything is very green, too, so if you’re into that – green – then you’ll be even happier than you would have been if everything was, say, purple.
Spiritual Theme
It seems as though every “spiritual” location, be they a “spiritual vortex” or simply a cheap place with nice weather, starts out as a yoga destination. And usually with a high percentage of vegan restaurants.
But why stop at yoga when there are so many more – far less common – spiritual pursuits just waiting to be explored? Most yoga destinations soon evolve to start offering all sorts of new age, alternative, non-traditional courses and experiences. Which means a wider range of options for those looking for self-reflection, deeper meaning and a spiritual experience. It also, apparently, opens up a whole spectrum of new income opportunities for those looking to extend their time in Ubud indefinitely. Win-win, theoretically. So, here are just a handful of the (very real) alternative experiences currently on offer on the Sari Organic Walk.
Clairvoyance Activation – You mean it was in there all along, I just needed to turn it on? Wish I’d known sooner, it would have been useful that time the wifi went down.
Hypnotherapy – The only way to know what, deep down, you really know.
Incense Workshop – For those smell enthusiasts out there. Let’s call them “smellies”.
Tarot Reading – All I know about tarot cards is that the really bad cards never LOOK like the really bad cards. That’s how they get you.
Alchemy – Obviously, turning lead into gold is useful from, you know, a financial perspective, but don’t underestimate the value of using dragonfruit to cure cancer. You never know when that one might come in handy.
Meditation – Adult quiet time. Rent one cushion, get the second one half price.
Conscious Touching – Still popular, even after Unconscious Touching had to be discontinued on account of all the lawsuits.
Hand Poking – Practice makes perfect, presumably.
Body Painting – Stamping out disposable clothing culture one bright blue nipple at a time.
Sacred Tattoo Ceremonies – Kind of like normal tattoo ceremonies but instead of instigated by drunk friends egging you on, they involve high friends supporting your personal agency and emotionally supporting the culmination of your unique spiritual journey in the form of an awesome tribal tattoo.
Seekers of Depth – This is for those seeking emotional depth, also, not just people who like diving down to get things from the bottom of the pool.
The Love like a King Brotherhood – In this unique class, sexual experts who are, like, big-time virile will teach you all the most important sexual skills you need to be as amazing in bed as, apparently, kings, who are, of course, famously skilled and generous in the sack. Take King Charles, for example.
According to their (once again, very real) website, these skills include the following:
“Lead mode”, which, it turns out, is just a matter of “reps”.
“Balls & Heart™“, which represents both an erotic state of mind and a kickass motto for a sleeveless shirt. Not to be confused with “balls ON the heart”, though, which is a very specific, and generally unsuccessful, sexual position. And, yes, that is also a real trademark.
“Attractiveness”, which, I NOW know, involves more than just a cool hat.
“Purpose”, reminding students the importance of staying focused on the end goal (penetration, right?) by avoiding distractions like, say, conversation or consent.
And there is, of course, a “Men’s Circle”, which is not JUST a circle jerk, although that is definitely a big part of it.
Then, eventually, you will achieve “Sexual Mastery”, when you finally put everything you’ve learned into practice and really, you know, give her the business. I assume there’s a coloured belt system like in karate so everybody knows who is the most masterful of all. Probably the guy selling the course, I’m thinking.
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Summary
Our short and simple overview: Ubud itself is a little bit… meh. Great food options, a few nice temples and it’s a terrific place to buy “surprisingly affordable” Arsenal third jerseys. So I’ve heard. But so busy, terrible traffic and monkeys that, let’s face it, simply don’t live up to the hype.
Get yourself just a little bit outside of central Ubud, though, to the Sari Organic Walk and you’ll still find amazing rice fields, volcano views and more dirty birds than you can shake a bamboo stick at. And, while the path has almost certainly changed a lot over the past few years – people who visited 5 years ago are probably already calling it “ruined” – it still works for us, hitting the perfect balance between natural beauty / rural charm and comfortable villas / excellent restaurants. How long will that last? Well, based on the amount of construction taking place, not forever, that’s for sure.
So, I guess now would be a great time to visit. Better get your ass moving.
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Raja Ampat: All Aboard the Liveaboard
Lombok Indonesia: Random Thoughts
About the Author
Dean Johnston
Dean Johnston quit his job as a financial planner in 2008 to travel the world, and has now visited all 7 continents and more than 85 different countries. He wrote his first blog entry in a sweltering internet cafe in Bali in 2000 and has been writing about their travels ever since, including publishing 3 travel books.
As Routinely Nomadic, Dean remains focused on providing informative travel guides, entertaining stories and useful social media content to readers from all over the world.