Sifnos: Spectacular Hiking on Poseidon’s Big Toe

Wild nature and detailed organization – two things that rarely seem to go hand in hand. Which made the quiet and vastly underrated Greek island of Sifnos both rare and the absolute perfect match for these two strangely divergent obsessions of ours. Obviously, we love to hike (and hiking is one of the best things to do in Sifnos). We’ve been doing it all over the world for more than 8 years now. However, less obviously, is just how much I love to have said hikes clearly mapped, meticulously planned and, in a perfect world, fastidiously recorded in document form. Lists, descriptions, info, degrees of difficulty, altitude gains/losses, all the little logistical perks that make it easier for us to simply relax and enjoy the walk without having to wonder if we’re going the right way, how long it will take, or how on Earth we’re supposed to reach, or return from, the trailhead.

Sifnos Hiking Trails

Luckily for us, though, recently the Sifnos travel board undertook a major upgrade of the island’s trails, improving way-markers, maintaining trails and, most importantly to someone like me, accurately numbering, mapping and publishing info about all the trails, both online and in the form of informative maps that are available for free at various places around the island, including the Info Center right where the ferries disembark.

For more info on the Cyclades:

Naxos: Where Zeus Battled Colic

Folegandros: Come for the Cliffs, Stay for the Goats

Milos: Tell Them Aphrodite Sent You

The Lovely Janet Guide to Santorini

Walking down to Kastro

There are 19 trails outlined, although for some reason they refused to number them past 10, instead opting to use a number of A’s and B’s, presumably liking the symmetry of the number 10 more than the suggestion of a rating system. Something I can appreciate, even though would personally would have suggested something a little more marketable, like using descriptions based on Greek mythology. Who wouldn’t look forward to traversing Prometheus’ Spine, getting a firsthand look at the Hills of Athena or, for the truly adventurous, attempting the arduous climb to the top of the gargantuan Pillar of Apollo? Throughout our 5-night stay we hiked all or part of at least 6 or 7 trails but our favourite was definitely the loop trail currently known as “#4” or, as I’ve proposed calling it, “The Treasure Trail of Hermaphroditus”. Over the course of roughly 4 hours it took us up and around a high hill with great views down to Vathy and Fykiada bays, then around, over and back to Platis Yialos. Tough climb, great views, I was briefly chased by a pig. It really had it all.

Bay of Vathy

Beach Town of Platis Yialos

For our stay on Sifnos we chose to base ourselves in the small, quiet beach town of Platis Yialos, which I suppose was a bit daring considering we were already on a relatively quiet island at a very quiet time of year. Well, you probably never would have guessed this, but it turned out to be very quiet. Many of the hotels were already shut down for the year and only a few restaurants were still open. There were two small “super”-markets offering a very limited and strangely eclectic mix of products. Thirteen kinds of whiskey but just one brand of beer. Virtually unlimited milk, but eggs would take a few minutes to fetch, still warm and dirty, from the coop. With a bit of flexibility and a willingness to return every few hours with fresh hope, over time we managed to scavenge enough for most of our breakfasts and a few lunches, and filled in all the other gaps eating at the friendly pizza/crepe place (Votsalo’s) on the beach directly in front of our apartment. The apartment itself (Pension Moschoula) had a great view from the terrace, and two bedrooms and two bathrooms, conveniently helping us keep up an acceptable ratio of visitation time to total bathroom queues.

Supper rush at Votsalo's

In between hikes we enjoyed strolling along the short beach and swimming in the surprisingly warm water. So far the Mediterranean has been far and away warmer than any of the pools we’ve been in, and even a couple of the showers. It is also fascinatingly buoyant, allowing Laynni to float around like a discarded wine cork. Even my upper body hung in there longer than usual, although apparently no sea is salty enough to prop up my legs, as they still quickly sank like hairy re-bar. We also took full advantage of the actual couch and decent, if intermittent, internet speed that allowed me to spend several of the wee hours each night streaming Blue Jays games. 8 pm EST may sound like a reasonable time for those watching back home, but is somewhat less so 7 time zones to the east. Totally worth it to watch them embarrass the pathetic Rangers in three straight, though. Enjoy the off-season, Rougned.

Platis Yialos

Groggy mornings and gritty eyes aside, though, we have both agreed that Sifnos is our favourite of the five Greek islands we have visited on this trip, and the only one we would seriously consider returning to for a longer stay. Perhaps a month or two in an apartment with a view, maybe in the centrally-located Apollonia where we could more easily replenish our stocks of salami and ointments while gradually working our way through all 19 of the local hiking trails. One day an easy saunter along Artemis’ Clavicle, the next a brutal foray around Hades’ Uvula, finished off with a celebratory beer on a terrace overlooking the deep Crevice of Aphrodite. And maybe a minotaur to carry our lunch. We’re fairly open, really.

Kastro

Other Sifnos Highlights

Kastro

The brilliant white village of Kastro prominently perched on a pointy hill above the ocean. It has a typically Greek warren of confusing narrow alleys, the remains of a formerly imposing fortress and a cute little church occupying a tiny peninsula branching out into the sea. This is also where we finally found salami.

Kastro

Agios Andreas

Agios Andreas is an ancient Mycenaean citadel located on the highest point of the island, most of which was originally built in the 8th century B.C. Probably not the ticket booth or W.C., though, they looked quite a bit newer to me.

On top of the island at Agios Andreas

Kamares Port

The beautiful port village of Kamares. Most of the port towns in the Greek isles have forced us to rethink our general stereotypes of dirty, dangerous port towns (no offense, Valparaiso, you’re still pretty cute from the right angles), yet even when held against that higher standard Kamares stood out. Tucked into a little valley between soaring hills, with its own small beach, several places to have a drink with a view of the bay (or get completely hammered with a view of the bay, your choice), and locals restaurateurs tending lines right off the docks in search of the evening menu.

Kamares

The large and excessively forward pig above Vathy Bay that was somehow convinced that I had something it desperately needed, at first causing me to uncomfortably sidestep its probing, shit-covered snout, then more actively backpedal, before finally fully sprinting away in hopes it would lose interest. It did not.

Sifnos FAQ

How many days do you need for Sifnos?

While it isn’t a large island, it Sifnos does have several distinct regions. If you were planning to stick to one area, such as Kamares, Kastro or Platos Yialos, 3-4 days is probably sufficient. However, we would recommend spending a week so you have half your time explore your base area and a few days to take on day trips to the other parts of the island.

Is Sifnos a party island?

Definitely not, especially when compared to some of the popular Cyclades islands such as Mykonos, Ios and Santorini. Of course, at the height of summer the beaches can get busy and festive and there is always the chance of ending up next to some rowdy neighbours but, for the most part, visitors to Sifnos are there to enjoy the natural surroundings and great hiking.

How do you get to Sifnos?

Ferries from Piraeus run all year-round, usually stopping off in Serifos along the way. There are also regular connections to nearby islands such as Kimolos, Milos and Folegandros. In summer, there are also ferries to and from the mainland port of Rafina.

The closest you can get by plane is to the airport in Milos, from which it is a relatively short ferry ride to Sifnos.

Does Sifnos have nice beaches?

Yes, even though it is much more well-known for its impressive hills and outstanding hiking terrain, there are many excllent beaches as well. Platos Yialos was a standout for us, and Vathy Beach is a nice, west-facing beach with good accommodation options. Kamares Beach is small but comfortable and very convenient to the ferries coming and going. Chrissopigi Beach is probably the most spectacular beach on Sifnos, with a beautiful bay and impressive monastery. Finally, those looking for solitude will appreciate the serenity and relaxation of Heronissos Beach, known for solitude and pottery.

Do you need a car on Sifnos?

Having a car is always helpful but Sifnos is one of the easier islands to be without one. Local buses are comfortable and punctual and with very few roads it is generally possible to reach everywhere by public transport without much trouble. We did not rent a car during our stay but easily reached all the trailheads and highlights by bus.

Ya su, Sifnos, I promise we shall see you again someday soon. Next up, all you could ever want to know about the famous volcanic caldera island of Santorini. As long as you’re okay with fake information and offensive stereotyping. Otherwise, someday you may still want to know more.

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