Patagonia – the name itself conjures up plenty of images and preconceptions, most of which are, to be honest, right on the money. Snow-capped mountains? Check. Glistening blue lakes? Check. Welcoming ski villages? Check. Endless fantastic viewpoints? Oh baby, check. So it isn’t hard to imagine just why we decided to seek out all the best San Martin de los Andes photo spots for your viewing pleasure. Then list and describe them, as well, theoretically for your pleasure as well, but I don’t want to be presumptuous.
San Martin de los Andes represents Part 4 of our latest diverse Argentinian journey, starting with some city exploration in Salta, followed by a much more hectic and exceptionally scenic Northern Argentina road trip, which we offset with relaxing week of wandering in and around the San Telmo district of Buenos Aires.
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San Martin is located in Patagonia, albeit in some of its furthest northern reaches. Even so, there was still about a 20 degree Celsius average drop from the warmth of the capital, probably about evenly attributable to the modest altitude increase (San Martin sits at 640m asl) and the fact it is much farther south. Yes, in this part of the world, south is colder. No matter how many times we experience it, though, it still feels weird. As does looking north to find the sun.
San Martin de los Andes – also known as SanMa, SMA or maybe just San Martin if you’re trying to avoid sounding like a pretentious try-hard tourist – is a classic ski town surrounded by hills, filled with trees and ski shops and flanked by a small, windy beach.
It is also absolutely teeming with flowers, even early in spring. Despite nightly lows often reaching 0, the hardy flowers of SanMa (see how dumb that sounds when I say it?) remain confusingly unfazed, even “flourishing” as Laynni admiringly put it, maybe through decades of evolutionary plant breeding, or maybe magic is alive and well in Patagonia, or maybe our northern flowers just give up way too easily. All I know is they add a real panache to the place, like a dignified old man with a colourful pocket square, or a barista with a strategic butterfly back tattoo.
So, with terrific scenery, quiet streets, good hiking trails and reasonably affordable hotels, we were happy to settle into a comfortable apartment in San Martin for 3 weeks, casually exploring, wandering, hiking and, of course, taking lots of photos. The lady at the tourist office was extremely helpful in providing info and ideas, there was obviously a resident Irish Pub and the several grocery stores provided almost all of the sustenance we needed (“microwave popcorn?” “Eh, no, try Buenos Aires.”)
San Martin marks the start (or end) of the Ruta de los Siete Lagos (Seven Lakes Route) – one of the top scenic highlights in Argentina and possible one of the best road trips in the world (more on that to come in future posts, I promise). San Martin is also a popular ski resort in winter, a serious golf destination in summer (Chapelco Golf Course was once named top course in Argentina) and lots of people visit before or after tackling the famous 2-day Volcán Lanín summit.
We also just happened to be in town for the Gran Fondo 7 Lagos (Big Background 7 Lakes?) bike race. A 3-day event featuring, supposedly, up to 3,000 road cyclists. While I can’t confirm that number, mainly because it is hard to imagine where 3,000 extra people stayed, there is no question that one afternoon the roads suddenly became a sea of spandex and aerodynamic helmets, much to the chagrin of our relatively normal pants and hats.
Aaanywaaay, here is our very subjective list of the best San Martin de los Andes photo spots.
San Martín de los Andes Photo Spots
Mirador Bandurrias
The undisputed star viewpoint in San Martin, this wonderful spot combines a pleasant, slightly uphill half-hour hike from town with a panoramic view out over gorgeous Lago Lácar, the lush green surrounding hills and the snow-capped Andes mountains. It was impressive enough that we went several times – one of those photo spots that never gets old.
The trail is on private land and they charge 1500 pesos when you reach the top (roughly $US1.50). You can turn it into a loop by following the trail out around the peninsula – just keep an eye out for angry dogs. Apparently 1 in 3 times, by our estimation.
The mirador is named after a local bird, the “bandurria”, known in English as “buff-necked ibis” or, alternately, that big, slow bird with the creepy, long, curved beak. They do fly, but reluctantly and not smoothly at all. Chances are you’ll see at least a couple during your stay, although not nearly as many as the “trash hawks”, which are everywhere and probably have an official – more dignified – name, although that one seems to most accurately describe what you’ll see them eating.
City Mirador
On the low path back down the peninsula from Mirador Bandurrias, there is an opening in the trees where you can get a great look at the town from directly across the bay.
Playa La Islita
At the top of the trail to Mirador Bandurrias you turn left for the main viewpoint, or you can continue ahead down the other side of the peninsula to tiny Playa La Islita (another half-hour one-way). The name means Little Island Beach. And, shockingly, it IS a little beach that just happens to be right across from a similarly little island. I like it when names just make sense.
Lago Lácar Observation Deck
Just off the end of San Martin beach, this man-made viewpoint offers a clear look out over the lake without any of that pesky foreground stuff to worry about. Although I personally preferred the view from behind the flowers on the way out to the platform. Always the photographic contrarian.
San Martin Sign
As all tourists know, any town worth its salt will have decorated one of its most popular areas with an obnoxiously oversized sign of – get this – the name of the town. Which is, all in all, pretty handy, especially if you’re lost, or maybe just don’t know what to do with your hands in most photos.
The point is, yeah, of course San Martin has one of those. Right on the beach, too. And if all this photo seeking has worked up your appetite, or you’ve just realized that it’s probably 5 o’clock somewhere, there are also some pretty good views from the front tables in the food court across the street.
Mirador Lago Lacar South
Head south from the beach and walk alongside famous Ruta 40 for a few minutes to get a terrific look back at the beach, town and surrounding hills. And if the season’s right, even more flowers.
Mirador Arrayanes
Like Mirador Bandurrias, this great San Martin photo spot provides panoramic lake views from on high. UNlike Mirador Bandurrias, the hike to get there is pretty uninspiring, following a dusty, winding, gravel road up the hill for 20-30 minutes. And you will need to keep a close eye on the local dogs as some are friendly (clingy, even) and others are, well, not friendly at all. Something else both miradores have in common, unfortunately. Not to worry, a carefully chosen rock and fake throw generally does the trick.
Plaza San Martin
The main square in town, which sort of explains the name, it features a presumably historically significant statue of some guy on a horse, plus lots of trees, nice benches and usually quite a few kids.
San Martin Municipal Office
Well, the name doesn’t exactly conjure up images of dazzling landscapes or mesmerizing architecture. However, it does have a pretty noticeable tower and someone has really gone all out on the flower planting, so it actually ends up being pretty picturesque in the end.
Mirador el Balcón
Up the hill northeast of town on the road leading to Hua Hum and the Chilean border, I debated whether or not to include this mirador on the list. Because, to be honest, it kind of sucks. Not if you were to just, say, stumble across it on a random walk, then you’d be pretty impressed of the expansive view of town and maybe even slightly titillated by the tiny sliver of lake visible in the other direction.
But considering they built an entire viewing platform and included it on tourist maps and everything, maybe they should have had a plan to deal with all those massive trees that grew up directly in front of it. On the one hand, the view is a bit better if you climb up onto the precarious railing. On the other hand, this is the one thing that is expressly forbidden, according to the sign. The bitterest of disappointments.
Perito Moreno and Los Rosales
Despite our lack of excitement about Mirador el Balcón, we did really like the view from top of Perito Moreno street on our way up to get there. A long, straight street backed by trees, church spires and, eventually, mountains. You’re responsible for finding your own “walking down the middle of the street like a fool” model, however.
Photo Spots Around San Martin de los Andes
Public transportation is decent within the confines of San Martin de los Andes but to explore any of the best spots outside the town you’ll either need to rent a car, sign up for a boat trip on the lake, get a bus card or join one of the popular bus tours.
With at least 2 people, the car rental route is much cheaper than taking a tour and much simpler than getting a bus card and figuring out the schedules (plus gets you to more places). If you decide to go that way, we recommend using Discover Cars. We’ve used them all over the world (including twice in San Martin) and they tend to have the best deals.
Playa Yuco
About 45 minutes from San Martin along a decent gravel road along the north shore of Lago Lácar, this is actually a cluster of 5 beaches, each with their own unique views and versions of mediocre “sand”. They are all quite close together and it is easy enough to explore all 5 but, for our money, playas 2 and 3 had by far the best views (and the least wind).
Hosteria Hua Hum
Continuing for about 20 minutes along the same road, just a few kilometres shy of the Chilean border on Lago Nonthué you’ll find Hosteria Hua Hum. It has a pleasant, rocky beach, photogenic white dock and, in our case, a whole family of adorable ducks. And before you say it, no, this is not a twitcher thing, just a normal fuzzy duckling thing.
Cascada Chacin
Do you like waterfalls? If the answer is yes, then, hey, this is perfect. Because “cascada” means waterfall in English. It is located on the opposite side of the small lake from Hosteria Hum, about 10 minutes by car. You will have to do a bit of hiking to reach it, but only about 15 minutes slightly uphill on a wide, smooth path.
Of course, if you somehow manage to arrive at exactly the one moment of the entire day when 40 passengers on the day’s only tour boat just happened to make it to the trailhead a mere 30 seconds before you were able to get out of the car and tighten your shoes, you’re going to have your work cut out for you passing them all.
Luckily for me, most of them found the incline – tame as it was – rather daunting and it wasn’t long before I was busting up the path alone, well, alone but for that one sheepish woman scrambling out of the bushes hastily pulling up her pants. Turns out making noise on the trail can be useful for more than just annoying bears.
Camping Chacín
A few minutes drive east from the Cascada Chacín you can cross slash ogle a cool old bridge over a pretty little river, then explore the pleasant, forest-y campground and wander down the lakeshore for some cool views of the distant mountains.
Laguna Rosales
In the opposite direction from town from the previous viewpoints, this one involves more hiking but on a calm, clear day Laguna Rosales is definitely one of the best San Martin photo spots. Public buses stop here a few times per day or you can drive out in less than half an hour.
The hike is a pleasant, ever-so-slightly-uphill stroll through low bushes until you reach the lake, where you can explore as much as you’d like in either direction. You can head back over the hill opposite the middle of the lake to make it a loop or simply retrace your steps – either one will take around 1.5 hours in total. However, if you got there by bus you could head past the west end of the lake and follow a downhill path all the way back to town (10km in total from the trailhead).
Mirador Lago Lolog
The same bus that stops at Laguna Rosales continues on to Lago Lolog (another 10 minutes or so by car). Bigger than Laguna Rosales and less hemmed in by green hills, but with even more flowers and much clearer views of the Andes. Six of one, half a dozen of the other.
San Martin de los Andes Photo Spots Map
Click the star to save this map to your Google Maps – then find it under Saved/Maps (mobile) or Your Places/Maps (desktop)
Summary
Bottom line, there ended up being more terrific San Martin de los Andes photo spots than we expected, which was surprising because, remember, we are research people. Also buttered popcorn people and re-watch The Office over and over people, although I don’t really see how those things are relevant here.
But, add all these outstanding viewpoints to the various hikes, scenic road trips, volcanoes, flowers, gawky birds and surprise pop-up bike races, and San Martin offers plenty to keep you busy for anything from a few days to a few weeks. Especially the gawky birds.
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