The hiking capital of Peru, and possibly even South America, Huaraz (pronounced war-ass) really should be more well-known. Set high up over 3,000 metres above sea level in the Ancash region in the heart of the Cordillera Blanca, one of the world’s most beautiful mountain ranges, Huaraz is the perfect destination for those who love nothing better than to strap on a backpack and head out in search of epic landscapes.
Unfortunately, thanks to a disastrous 1970 earthquake and landslide, Huaraz won’t dazzle you with its astonishing architecture or classic colonial buildings. And nobody would describe it as cosmopolitan, with just a handful of bars, some optimistically-named discotheques and arguably far too many pollerias – great for chicken lovers but somewhat limited for those prefer a larger range of roasted animals.
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But tourists don’t come to Huaraz for what’s IN the city, they come for the natural wonderland around it, and it’s among these snow-covered mountains that Huaraz compares favourably with any other mountain town in the Western Hemisphere.
Why Go to Huaraz?
Hiking is obviously the number one reason. So, if you are one of those that love climbing steep hills at altitudes that require even more gasping than normal, well, Huaraz is the place for you. Many gorgeous day hikes are available within driving distance of the city and it is also the base for several of the most popular multi-day treks in South America.
Of course, even if hiking isn’t really your thing, Huaraz is also home to thousands of dogs of all sizes and shapes, perfect for pet lovers desperately missing their best furry friend from back home. I wouldn’t recommend petting them, though, even though 9 out of 10 won’t attack, you don’t have to wander long for the odds to turn against you. On the bright side, even the shortest city tour is sure to give you a sordid glimpse of some frantic humping, usually between wildly disparate breeds, making the spectacle all the more riveting.
When to Go to Huaraz?
Huaraz is roughly the same temperature all year-round (16/8C) and only has two seasons – rainy and dry. Dry season is slightly cooler and, well, drier. Better for hiking. Worse for your sinuses. It runs from May to October, with June to August being the safest bets.
Rainy season is slightly warmer and, well, rather damp. For much of the rainy season you can still expect clear mornings with showers arriving in the afternoon and lasting through the night. Which is not necessarily a terrible thing, depending on your plans. Multi-day mountain camping trek? Not ideal. Testing your skills in the nearest community garden – perfecto. January to April are the wettest months of the year.
Orientation
Like any colonial Latin American city worth it’s empanadas, Huaraz fans out from a large, lively central plaza. And just keeps fanning out, downhill to the highway, uphill to main residential areas, and sideways to all the best banks, tour agencies, shoe stores and bus stops.
Where to Stay in Huaraz
There are four main accommodation options in Huaraz, each of which features its own list of pros and cons.
1) A number of underwhelming hostels that are cheap but noisy.
2) Or you can opt for one of the below average hotels which are not quite as cheap, but also not quite as noisy.
3) For longer stays we can recommend one of a handful of rental apartments, all of which boast 24-hour hot water, wifi and localized barking.
4) Some weirdos just stay in a tent.
Eating and Drinking in Huaraz
While not known as a culinary utopia, Huaraz does have a lot of places where you can buy an entire roast chicken that comes with a “big salad” and absurd amount of French fries for less than $20.
Decent pizza can be found at Mi Comedia or Pizzero, just know that adding mushrooms will involve a can opener.
Cuy, known as guinea pig in English, is a local delicacy. It features very little meat and a lot of bones, but at least they aren’t nearly as cute once they’ve been deep-fried.
Eating oranges and scattering the peels along hiking trails is a favourite local pastime. You really had to be there.
Those with kitchens can stock up at either Novaplaza or Trujillo grocery stores. Popular features include overpriced German salami, extremely buttery microwave popcorn and strong milk that doesn’t really need to be refrigerated, like, ever.
There are dozens of panaderias around the city selling sweets, a small selection of buns and bread and an enormous selection of cakes. Celebratory people, the Peruvians. Some have found it possible subsist almost entirely on empanadas and “pan de piso” (floor bread).
Entertainment in Huaraz
The most popular pastime in Huaraz, besides hiking, is loitering in the numerous public parks. Many of which feature artificial grass for the kids. Get there early for the best seats.
A small sport court uphill from the main plaza is extremely popular with kids and adults alike, from morning to night serving to bring out the loudest and most shrill screams of both.
Every two or three days a parade will pass by. Not sure why or what the occasion, but you can bet there will be tubas.
There is no traditional cinema in Huaraz but there is Space Cinema & Box, where you can rent a room with a big screen TV. The experience is similar to watching at home except takes place in a, presumably, darker room. Or “box”, if you will.
Shopping in Huaraz
Every weekend a used clothes market sets up just outside the cemetery, although there is probably no connection. Almost definitely no connection.
Nearby, the extensive fruit, veggie and meat market takes place every day. Get there early for the crispest carrots, ripest mangos and freshest pig heads.
The Mercado Central is located a few blocks north of the main plaza and is the place to go for most other shopping needs. Just outside the covered area you’ll find a single miscellaneous shop selling the only North American-style toaster in Huaraz. The price is prohibitive and it is kept way up on the top shelf, far out of reach of the Peruvian shopkeeper, but it’s definitely a toaster.
Huaraz Tips and Advice
Almost all the ATMs in Huaraz can be found on the same block just north of the main plaza, presumably all sharing the same power bar.
Most Peruvian ATMs have a very inconvenient withdrawal limit of just 400 soles per transaction ($US100) and all but one charge a significant fee on withdrawals with foreign cards (25 soles + / $US7). BCP charges a fee but allows larger 700 sole withdrawals and MultiRed/Banco de la Nación ATMs are the only one that does not charge a fee on foreign cards. Apparently, punishment for finishing last in their fantasy football league.
Hats are not allowed to be worn in banks in Huaraz. Pants, however, are mandatory, it turns out.
Getting most places in Huaraz involves climbing steep hills, even more noticeable at such high altitude. However, taxis are cheap so we would not recommend walking anywhere.
There are also dozens of different colectivos (shared minibuses) with route numbers and destinations clearly marked on the front. But you won’t recognize any of those places anyway, so just be prepared to ask around.
50% of the cars in Huaraz will honk at you as they pass. This means one of three things. One, they are an official taxi. Two, it is just some guy with empty seats in his car at the moment who will be happy to give you a ride somewhere in exchange for money. Three, they are warning you to get off the road before they hit you. Unfortunately, all three sound quite similar.
Every night at 10 pm a truck drives around using a loudspeaker to announce the goods they have for sale. You do not want any of those goods, however.
Huaraz plumbing is not equipped to handle toilet paper, even after all these years of trying, so do not try to flush it.
On a related note, do not drink the tap water in Huaraz.
Getting To and From Huaraz
There are two rather mysterious airports in the Huaraz area, both about an hour’s drive away. Commercial flights do exist to these small runways through LATAM airlines but the added cost ($US100 one-way), distance from the city and need to arrive well in advance eliminate most potential advantages over the buses.
Several bus companies run the 9-hour route between Huaraz and the capital, Lima. Most of which are very comfortable and reasonably priced ($US15-25). Cruz del Sur, Movil and Transporte Linea all offer executive services with large seats, toilets and John Wick movies on loop. They also take great pride in specifying the exact degree of recline. While 140 degrees is generally sufficient, paying a little extra for 160 degrees can feel luxurious. Scientists remain hard at work in hopes of eventually reaching the elusive 180-degree goal.
Getting Around the Huaraz Area
Colectivos are cheap, crowded and confusing. In other words, public transport.
Taxis anywhere within Huaraz cost just 5 soles (approx. $US1.50). Something to keep in mind when stocking up on 20L boxed water at the grocery store.
Organized tours to the top spots such as Laguna Parón and Laguna 69 are ludicrously cheap (50-70 soles = $US15-20), meaning it is hardly worth trying to get there on your own. The downside is travelling in a large group.
Unfortunately, getting to the less popular trails can be trickier, since there are rarely enough people for a group. Private taxis are reasonably priced and can be faster than colectivos but will still cost quite a bit more than group tours (usually $US65-75 for 2-4 people).
Renting a car is also an option, although most of the mountain roads are gravel and a bit rough, with the occasional confusing side road thrown in just to keep you honest.
If you can find someone to share either of the last two options it can become a fairly good deal, so either try asking around on a group tour, talking to guests at your hotel or hostel or check out this Huaraz Facebook group to find hiking/transport partners.
Things to See in Huaraz
Huaraz is not blessed with a lot of notable attractions. Partially due to that big, old earthquake mentioned earlier. And partially because it’s just a normal place that hasn’t dolled itself up for tourists.
Yes, there are a couple of nice churches. And several nice squares. Usually with some decent shrubberies and playgrounds but also rather too much concrete and artificial turf.
The Incan ruins of Pumacayan might be interesting but it’s hard to say, since the site is only open on public holidays and the rest of the time is locked up and off-limits, apparently to deter partying teens and unscrupulous trash dumpers.
Mirador de Rataquenua is a nice viewpoint overlooking the city, easily recognized by its giant cross (probably a religious thing). It can be reached by walking up a dusty road for about half an hour and there is a small shop there selling snacks, drinks and, presumably, gum.
Best Hikes Around Huaraz
Most people come to Huaraz for the hiking, and they are truly spoiled for choice. Unfortunately, most hikes in the area involve a long, painful drive on some truly horrendous roads, making for some long days, but that is more a Peru thing than specifically a Huaraz thing, it seems. Nonetheless, make sure your headphones are fully charged, they’ll definitely come in handy.
Laguna 69
14 km
850m elevation gain
Lake elevation 4,600m
Max elevation – trail from refugio 4,850m
5-7 hrs
Easily the most popular destination in the Cordillera Blanca, the 7-km each way hike is no joke, despite the many, many tourists that tackle it daily. The lake itself is fabulous, though, especially if you can get there before the main set of groups arrive. You can solve that particular issue by turning the hike into a 2-day loop with a night in Refugio Peru/Pisco. The indecision over the hut name is confusing but, whatever you call it, the location in a rocky bowl surrounded by tall peaks is phenomenal.
The hike from the refugio to Laguna 69 is steep, rocky and difficult but provides a 2.5-hr head start on the groups driving out from Huaraz. Meanwhile, the views are truly stunning and approaching the lake from above offers a unique and spectacular angle.
Laguna 513
15 km
900m elevation gain
Max elevation 4,450m
6-7 hrs
At the other end of the spectrum, sublime Laguna 513 is barely known and sees just a handful of hikers daily, mostly local Peruvians. It also takes nearly 2 hours to get to the trailhead and, for some reason, cattle probably, the national park gate is permanently locked, forcing everyone to climb over a rock fence. But the unmarked trail is relatively easy and (somewhat) gradual, passes by a couple other nice lakes as well.
Laguna Parón
2 km
130m elevation gain
Max elevation 4,350m
1 hr
As you can see from the numbers, this one is more a destination than a hike. Laguna Parón is one of the most famously beautiful lakes in the Cordillera Blanca – luminescent blue, surrounded by steep ridges and backed by picture-perfect Artesonraju peak, famously (and most likely incorrectly) known as the model for the Paramount Pictures logo. The drive takes at least 3 hours each way and most tours allow you 2 hours for some combination of exploring the shoreline, paying for a short boat trip and hiking up to the main viewpoint.
If you chose to camp or spend a night in their very basic hut, you would have time to hike past the far end of Parón for views of Laguna Artesonraju and a closer look at the iconic peak.
Laguna Llaca
8/12/18 km
300/500/900m elevation gain
Max elevation 4,475m
3-8 hrs
A beautiful lake surrounded by mountains, of course, but also quite a nice hike through a picturesque valley to get there. There are several different trailheads near Pitec, the start for the much more popular Laguna Churup (see below) but it is a bit more complicated to reach.
You take the same colectivo as for Churup and after they drop off there, you slightly backtrack, then head up on some nasty dirt roads to either the first trailhead (18 km / 900m elev gain / 6-8 hrs / 45pen/pp), the second at the park checkpoint (12 km / 500m / 4-5 hrs / 150 pen for up to 4 people) or drive all the way to the entrance gate (8 km / 300m / 3 hrs). It’s even possible to drive all the way to the lake, where there is a nice refugio.
Laguna Willcacocha
6 km
560m elevation gain
Max elevation 3,700m
3-4 hrs
This hike is just 20 minutes outside Huaraz and is easily reached by colectivo (2 soles / $US0.50). The lake is tiny and not particularly nice and most of the trail climbs up through villages. However, it is still one of the most popular hikes in Huaraz because it is easy to reach and perfect for acclimatization.
And even though it may not compare to the main highlight hikes, that is a pretty high bar. Located across the highway in the less scenic Cordillera Negra, Willcacocha is, nonetheless, one of the only hikes that offers big panoramic views of the Cordillera Blanca range from a distance.
Laguna Churup
7 km
660m elevation gain
Max elevation 4,500m
4-5 hrs
Different lake, different colour, known for its reflectiveness and is even more popular since it can be reached by short, 45-minute colectivo from Huaraz. The trail is short but steep, much like my hair in middle school, and quite popular with those preparing their bodies for a more intense multi-day trek.
Best Multi-Day Treks Around Huaraz
There are many opportunities to get out into the mountains for multiple days, getting away from the crowds and experiencing some of the best scenery in the area. If you have your own gear or are willing to pay for a private guide/tour then the possibilities are practically endless.
However, if you are too reasonable to be carrying an entire backpack full of camping equipment around South America and don’t love the idea of being the sole focus of attention for a guide/driver/cook/mule driver for anywhere from 3-14 days, there are two main trekking options:
Santa Cruz Trek
By far the most popular multi-day trek in the Cordillera Blanca, it is typically done as a 4-day, 3-night circuit. Both ends of the trek are located several hours drive from Huaraz. During the trek you will enjoy plenty of exceptional mountain landscapes, colourful alpine lakes and the panoramic views from Punta Union.
Every tour agency in Huaraz offers a version of the Santa Cruz, most providing similar experiences, although the surprising difference in prices suggests varying levels of service and equipment. It is possible for fast hikers to shorten the trek to 3 days or you can add alternative routes to extend it to 5 days. Very slow hikers can arrange to be left in the wilderness indefinitely (for an extra charge).
Huayhuash Trek
Unsurprisingly, the main trek in the Cordillera Huayhuash, a few hours south of Huaraz, the Huayhuash Trek has been called the second-best trek in the world (after Everest Base Camp). While I wouldn’t necessarily put either of those in our global top two, the Huayhuash is undoubtedly a bucket list experience.
Stunning scenery from start to finish, breathtaking campsites (in more ways than one) and surprisingly varied terrain makes the Huayhuash the most impressive trek in the Huaraz region. For years firmly hidden off the beaten path, word is starting to get out and the popularity of the Huayhuash is beginning to take off, especially among Israelis, who refer to it as the “Hummus Hike” (because every Israeli eats hummus and every Israeli hikes the Huayhash).
A variety of Huayhuash treks can be organized from short 4-day jaunts that focus on a single valley to epic 14-day battles of attrition for people who want to explore every nook and cranny of this exceptional mountain range and clearly have no regard for their personal hygiene.
Best Day Trips from Huaraz
Baños Termales Chancos
Hot springs lovers will jump at the chance to visit these unusually warm pools not far from Huaraz. Hot spring haters rarely do.
Mountain Biking
There is a wide variety of mountain biking trails in the Huaraz vicinity, all of which boast fantastic mountain scenery and great odds of hurting yourself. Bikes of all levels can be rented in Huaraz for very reasonable prices, making the inevitable injuries surprisingly cost-effective.
Carhuaz, Yungay and Caraz
These small, lively villages north of Huaraz each have their own unique culture, pleasant main plaza and special hats for women. Visit all three to receive your honorary Ancash village badge.
Chavin de Huantar
Far enough away to be a questionable “day trip” inclusion, the ancient ruins at Chavin de Huantar are famous enough to warrant a mention. However, not quite famous enough to warrant 7 hours of driving, for most people.
One-Day Huaraz Itinerary
One day is not much time so the first thing you should do is figure out how you got on the wrong bus and ended up in Huaraz for a single day. Because there is nothing you can realistically do in Huaraz in one day to justify the 9-hour trip from Lima. Or the 9 hours back. Unless you have a date, I guess.
One-Week Huaraz Itinerary
In our opinion, one week is the minimum amount of time to set aside for a visit to Huaraz. First off, there’s the altitude – 3,050m in the city and considerably higher on every hike in the area. Which means your first couple days are going to be spent struggling for breath. Well, struggling for breath and yelling at dogs to shut up. Either way, you’ll be out of breath.
With one week, you will have time to explore the city (mercados, squares, panaderias, etc.) in one day, tackle a nearby acclimatization hike another day (Laguna Willcacocha or Mirador Ratequenua) and organize trips to Laguna Parón, Laguna 69 and Laguna Churup. By the end of the week, you should almost be able to function normally at these crazy altitudes, just in time to head back down to sea level.
One-Month Huaraz Itinerary
A month in Huaraz is definitely a luxury. You will be able to acclimatize more slowly instead of trying to force your body into feats of exertion it isn’t ready for, all the while trying to confuse it with beer and sweet candy. Plus, you are likely to experience anywhere from 6-8 random parades. The one-week itinerary is still a good starting point, improved further by being stretched out over 10 days.
Then, once your body is feeling relative prepared and comfortable, you should take a shot at either the Huayash or Santa Cruz trek. The Huayhuash should be your first choice, due to the additional variety, greater number of world-class viewpoints and an objectively cooler name.
Whichever one you choose, you’ll want a few days to recover afterwards, luxuriating in simple pleasures such as walls, running water and, hopefully, far less cowshit.
Then, once your energy and hiking vigour have returned, you can make plans for some of the lesser-known highlights in the area. Mountain biking down the Cañon del Pato, lazing around in the hot springs at the Baños Termales Chancos and, of course, trying out the quieter trails around Huaraz. The long but only very gradual uphill to Laguna Shallap, the serenity of Laguna Llaca, the beauty of the three lakes at Laguna 513 and the incredible viewpoint over Laguna Mullaca. Some ice cream might be nice, too.
History of Huaraz
10000 BC
Hunters and gatherers convene in the area to hunt and gather, and occasionally organize seminars on hunting and gathering.
1500 BC
The Wari civilization build several impressive ruins, including Pumacayan, plus one really gross water fountain.
800 AD
Local tribes consider adopting the wheel but decide against it, citing the shocking shittiness of the roads.
1400 AD
Incan warlord Pacachuti grows bored with Macchu Picchu and sets off to conquer the Huaylas in the Cordillera Blanca. While successful, he doesn’t actually enjoy hiking and doesn’t see the need for so many places that rent out sleeping bags, and soon heads back to Cusco with a whole new appreciation for its beauty and Asian specialty restaurants.
20th Century AD
Women’s hats continue to evolve, with each village specializing in headwear of specific height, colour and feather arrangement. None of which feature a Yankees logo.
1970 AD
Much of the valley is wiped out by a combination of earthquakes and landslides, representing one of the biggest natural disasters in history.
2004 AD
The dogs unite and begin their takeover.
2016 AD
Families living among the ruins of Pumacayan are evicted to preserve the historical integrity of the site, and so it can host a music festival.
2022 AD
Pumacayan is locked up due to excessive trash and frequent fornication. Mostly outside of marriage.
2024 AD
The dogs are declared victorious.
Best Tour Agencies
Huaraz has dozens of tour agencies, many of which offer most of the same excursions, each with the the same services, all for very similar prices. You can also arrange most tours through your hotel or hostel, although they will generally just book you through whichever company has room so you won’t know who you’re ending up with until (if) they show up at your door.
Waroma Eco Tours
Possibly the best combination of service and price in Huaraz, their 5-day short Huayhuash treks are extremely well-organized, with excellent guides, equipment and food.
Qorianka
One of the higher-end companies in Huaraz, Qorianka offers a larger range of tours and treks than most. And even if they don’t have a group going to your chosen destination, they can arrange a private driver for a very reasonable price.
Eco Ice Peru
Considered the elite tour company in Huaraz, they only do multi-day excursions. Their tours and treks are among the most expensive in town but the quality level is also a cut above.
Akilpo
Another slightly more expensive alternative, Akilpo is a great source of information and their tours come highly recommended by travellers.
Peru Servicio
One of the better budget options in Huaraz, offering very good deals on the most popular trips, including the Santa Cruz trek.
Galaxia
Another budget choice, Galaxia is a good option for day trips, including Laguna Parón and Laguna 69. People also rave about the food on their Santa Cruz treks.
Huaraz Treks
Another popular choice that usually have scheduled trips to the top locations.
Huascaran Peru
They offer all the usual options at reasonable prices, with one of their unique features being the Santa Cruz trek starting in Cashapampa, heading the opposite direction of most tours.
Summary
Huaraz is an average Peruvian city surrounded by exceptional landscapes. It is a bucket list destination for avid hikers so, while it may not be the prettiest city you’ll encounter in South America, with so many different trekking options and mountain destinations it is a great place to come to enjoy some epic hikes.
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