The overnight Thai sleeper train is a classic rite of passage for travellers in Thailand. And, as with most things travel, its popularity started with backpackers on the lookout for ways to save every penny possible by combining transportation and accommodation. Leaving more money to be spent on booze and condoms, of course. Then, as these early pioneers talked up the experience, word slowly got out and eventually tourists of all types and in all financial brackets started clamouring for the iconic Thai sleeper train experience.
Which means prices have jumped, of course, but that has also led to higher levels of service and comfort. A happy trade-off for some, “ruined” for others. For us, it was really just about nostalgia. Our first Thai sleeper train journey was over 25 years ago and we had mixed memories – unique but loud, hot but more comfortable than a bus, social but with a few too many mysterious smells for our liking.
Our site includes affiliate links to products we recommend. If you use one to make a purchase, we earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. Thanks for your support!
So, looking at it as one of the options for getting from Chiang Mai to the historic Siamese capital of Ayutthaya, we took all that into consideration, then basically said “what the hell, it’s just one night”. And we were definitely going to splurge for the first-class sleeper car. Oh, no first-class car on this train? Not to worry, second-class it is, still featuring toilets, fold-down beds and, most importantly, air-conditioning. So, in case you were wondering, no, we weren’t exactly planning to rough it. Other than the fact we’d be sleeping on a train surrounded by strangers.
And what follows is a very detailed, step-by-step log of our Thai sleeper train journey, whether you asked for it or not.
13:00 Embark from Pai in a minivan filled with cheap backpackers hauling more luggage than they were allowed but they make up for it by sitting in other people’s assigned seats and coughing without covering their mouths.
16:00 Disembark in Chiang Mai, arriving with 2 hours to spare until our 18:10 train. Spend a lot of that time at McDonald’s and a little bit of that time buying bananas from 7-11.
17:30 Walking along the platform hoping to board the train early. Just like everyone else, apparently, based on the crowd. We immediately speed up to an uncomfortable pace and win the race to Car 6, for no apparent reason.
17:45 Search out the dining car to stock up on water, also for no apparent reason, as vendors pass through frequently throughout the evening.
18:00 Notice the air-conditioning is seriously pumping, add layers. Nearby women wearing just shorts and tank tops stare straight ahead in miserable silence (while full suitcases sit nearby).
18:10 Completely stymied by hydraulic table.
18:14 Finally solve hydraulic table.
18:16 Attendant really thinks we should order dinner.
18:20 The train is moving!
18:22 Discover a power outlet. Laynni rudely leaves me hanging.
18:25 Man in festive flowered shirt starts playing guitar and singing Country Roads. Quite badly. He may be a busker.
18:30 He’s NOT a busker. Just a really bad singer with no concept of public space.
18:35 Attendant really thinks we should order dinner.
18:40 Group of Portuguese tourists all booked cheaper top bunks, now finding their lack of proximity quite inconvenient.
18:50 Phantom bowel movement.
19:00 New attendant checks tickets.
19:01 Original attendant thinks we might want to order dinner.
19:15 Last chance to order dinner, apparently.
19:30 Benches scheduled to be converted to bunks. That does not happen.
19:38 Neighbours’ dinners are delivered Thai-style. Meaning, slightly spicy and tightly secured in several layers of thick plastic packaging.
19:40 No, they cannot pay with card here, only in the dining car. They should probably hurry and do that.
19:42 I show the neighbour how to fold his table down. It is a proud moment.
19:45 He waited too long to pay. No internet between stops. Attendant thinks we might still want to order dinner before it is too late.
19:55 Man clipping his fingernails in the aisle.
20:05 Phantom bowel movement.
20:10 Attendant returns to encourage neighbour to go pay. Now, preferably.
20:15 Too late again, it seems.
20:30 Turndown service begins. Dozens of cameras follow young woman’s every movement as she magically transforms utilitarian benches into utilitarian beds. 20 or so times.
20:50 We have beds! And blankets and pillows. But no place to sit.
20:55 Exploring my new accommodation. VERY excited about private light, electrical outlet and tiny pocket. A LITTLE excited about the shiny curtains.
21:25 Phantom bowel movement.
21:30 Buff over eyes. Ear plugs in ears.
21:40 Was the train always jiggling this much?
22:15 I guess it was.
22:20 Woman mops past vigorously.
23:45 Wake up. Slobber everywhere.
00:30 Phantom bowel movement.
04:10 Wake hoping for delays because 5:20 am seems too early to arrive. Anywhere.
04:20 Screen shows arrival time 20 minutes ahead of schedule. Google Maps disagrees.
04:40 Brush teeth.
04:45 Small, unconvincing bowel movement.
05:20 Arrive at Ayutthaya stop. Disembark in complete darkness.
5:30 Take a Grab to hotel. Nobody working yet but weird French guest let us in. Which saves us from Plan B. Which we do not have.
06:30 Hotel staff arrives. No, we cannot get in our room yet. Yes, we can leave our luggage. No, we cannot have the door code. Yes, we can use the bathroom. If we must.
07:00 Order breakfast at Punthai Tea next door.
07:15 Eat breakfast at Punthai Tea next door.
07:55 Started our exploration of the famous ancient Siamese capital of Ayutthaya.
Summary
Overall, our latest Thai sleeper train experience was quite enjoyable. They have made considerable upgrades to the trains over the years and riding the rails in the dark no longer feels like the wild adventure it once did. Although we might feel quite differently had we opted for the non-A/C economy class.
Still, it is organized, efficient and comfortable. The only real downside was showing up at our hotel before sunrise, a solid 8 hours before check-in. Thankfully they were happy to let us hang out inside whenever we felt the need for a break from sightseeing / café lounging / wandering in the heat.
Which will (eventually) bring us to:
The Historic City of Ayutthaya – Buddhas Galore!
Other Posts You Might Like:
Thailand: Things to Know Before Visiting
Our Time in the Chiang Mai Markets
The Best Thai Islands: An Overview
Pin it for later!
About the Author
Dean Johnston
Dean Johnston quit his job as a financial planner in 2008 to travel the world, and has now visited all 7 continents and more than 85 different countries. He wrote his first blog entry in a sweltering internet cafe in Bali in 2000 and has been writing about their travels ever since, including publishing 3 travel books.
As Routinely Nomadic, Dean remains focused on providing informative travel guides, entertaining stories and useful social media content to readers from all over the world.